Poetic Couture

You know there's a lot of talk about Steampunk jewelry these days, but jewelry artists have been working in this style for at least 20 years now.

Grouping of found-object art by Bob Ebendorf.

In my upcoming book, Steampunk Style Jewelry, I describe the trend as "Mad Max meets Jane Austen", which I think an appropriate pairing of images for getting a handle on what this thing is all about. When you envision that pair of images, you'll realize you've seen jewelry in that style for years.

Jean Campbell, Uncle Julie Says Goodnight, 2008.

For example, when I met my friend and great influence Bob Ebendorf in the early 1990s, he was finding most of the materials for his unique works in the back alleys of Santa Monica and in the tide wash-ups on Venice Beach. He'd create grand necklaces of squirrel paws and tail lights; simple rings with rusty washers and concrete with a single pearl set in; pendants made from broken vodka bottle glass and vintage photos.

Robert Ebendorf, Fragments (brooch), 2006.

I don't feel that when Bob started experimenting with found objects in his jewelry-making he was working directly from the same science-fiction bent that Steampunk comes from, but the stew... the collective artistic consciousness from which he picked his materials...the stuff floating around in creative people's heads at the time...definitely included the works of the sci-fi writers like K. W. Jeter and James Blaylock.

K.W. Jeter, Morlock Night, 1979.

When I think about it ,I feel that Bob's early work with found objects was probably more directly informed by the assemblage work of artists like Joseph Cornell. Cornell's work exemplifies beautifully the drive by artists in the mid-20th century to incorporate the flotsam and jetsam of our everyday lives into our aesthetic sense. Artists like Cornell used that stuff as they would paint--it was just another rich material to create works of art.

Joseph Cornell, Cassiopeia 1.

When Bob and other jewelry designers like Thomas Mann, Richard Salley, and Keith LoBue started using that same detrius to create wearable art, the "found object jewelry" aesthetic took on a life of its own. We might call it "Steampunk" now, but I think it might be more aptly named "Poetic Couture".

Keith Lo Bue, Mesmerism, 2008.

It's interesting to see how the groundbreaking work of found-object jewelry artists like these, scrounging through the human condition for materials and bringing their fruits back to their studios to create beauty, eventually informs high fashion. My friend Jan Calligan just sent me this link. Jewelry designer Lorenz Baumer has created this piece for Louis Vitton using white and yellow diamonds, sapphires, spinel, and garnets.

Lorenz Baumer Necklace for Louis Vitton.

Do you see the direct influence of Poetic Couture on this necklace design? How 20..30..40 years later, after the Poetic Couture found its roots, it has made its way to the Paris fashion houses? There's no denying its found-object feel and very direct reference to cogs and gears.

What stuff on your work bench right now is informed by Poetic Couture? Maybe you're using words in your pieces? Or adding resin to photos or drilling holes in stuff you've found on the street? Know that you're part of a smoothly rolling trend, not a fad. You're part of a line of craft poets.